Babies from our past

Our Rabbit Care follows the ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) this organization focuses on rabbit welfare and the best practices to care for rabbits long term. Rabbits were not originally domesticated to be companion animals and here we respect that and do not center our expectations on providing pets, however, we do strive to produce quality rabbits for Rabbit confirmation shows. These Rabbit shows primarily focus on the rabbit's original purpose, to be a meat animal. This does not mean that quality pets cannot exist within our rabbit's bloodlines. For those rabbits who meet the criteria for being a pet animal, we strive to place them in a loving forever home. Whether that will be with a potential adopter or remain with us is up to the rabbit. 

At Brie's Bunny Barn, we have 20 -30 rabbits at any given time, these large number of rabbits require their individual space where they can feel safe and clean. Here we strictly use 14 gauge galvanized after-weld wire cages.  

Even though wire bottom cages are off-putting to some. Through reviewing several scientifically-backed studies from AG colleges around the world and by performing our own smaller tests we have concluded that 14 gauged 1-½in galvanized/welded wire is the only wire suitable for rabbits' feet to keep them clean and healthy. 

Rearing rabbits on a wire net floor or straw litter: behavior, growth, and meat qualitative traits "Pen-raised rabbits showed lower growth rate and higher feed:gain ratio and mortality, than those held in cages. The slaughter traits — dressing out percentage, meat:bone ratio, carcass compactness, and fatness — confirmed a lower maturity of these animals. . . . The rabbits raised in straw-bedded pens gave the poorest results due to straw ingestion and more direct contact with excreta."

Temperature and Cage Floor Enrichment Affect The Behavior of Growing Rabbits 

"Cages were placed either in a natural temperature chamber or in a refrigerated one. In each chamber, half of the cages had part of the floor surface covered with a wooden board enriched with litter straw such that, in enriched cages, rabbits had free choice between the straw and the wire net floor. . . . In the natural temperature chamber, rabbits preferred the wire net floor over the litter straw (77.9 vs. 22.1%, P<0.01), whereas in the refrigerated chamber, they did not show any preference (45.9 vs. 54.1%, P=0.41)."

When constructed and placed properly in an enclosure located away from harsh weather such as direct sun, wind, and rain, these wire cages provide the best situation to maintain a rabbit's clean demeanor while also giving them enough room to freely move around, binky, and flop as their heart desires. In our setup, we have a large overhang that keeps our rabbits dry from the rain and away from direct sunlight. The walls of this building are open to the air, allowing natural airflow in the summer, fall, and spring. In the winter these walls are shaded in large industrial-grade tarps and secured to posts to prevent the colder frigid air. In these domestic rabbits, wild ancestors' burrows are just big enough for the rabbit to safely turn around and sit without its ears up. The cages we utilize here mimic a rabbit burrow and give them room to feel like they have a space of their own.
ARBA size requirements for rabbits and cavies - https://arba.net/arba-recommendations-for-the-care-of-rabbits-and-cavies/

• For a buck (male) or a doe (female) who is not currently raising a litter, they are housed in 2ft by 2ft 14 gauge galvanized after-weld wire cages.
• For a doe who is currently raising kits (baby rabbits), the doe is moved to a 3ft by 4ft 14 gauge galvanized after-weld wire cage from the time the kits are born up until the kits are 6 - 8 weeks old.
• For the kits who are newly separated from their mother, they will be housed together with their litter mates in a 3ft by 3ft 14 gauge galvanized after-weld wire cage until they are 12 weeks old or 5lb (whichever comes first). These kits are often separated by gender within this time.  

 For our bucks and does who are not raising a litter, our rabbits get a daily feeding of a high protein Alfalfa-based Complete Pelleted Ration that is beneficial in keeping our rabbits healthy throughout their life. In America and Canada, there are many different brands of Complete pellets to give any rabbit. the base for a pellet brand to be considered "Complete" is that the pellet must be anywhere between 16% - 18% protein and 18% - 22% fiber. anything outside of these parameters would result in a rabbit's lack of bone and muscle growth, not to mention GI problems from a fiber imbalance.

During the fall winter and spring, the rabbit's protein intake is at 18%. Because of the harsh Summers we have in Texas, the rabbit's protein intake has dropped to 16%. During the summer months my rabbits are on break and not producing new litters, so the focus moves toward surviving the heat of summer.

Summer feeding nutrition list
Crude Protein (min) ............................ 16.5%
Crude Fat (min)..................................... 2.7%
Crude Fiber (min) .................................. 16%
Crude Fiber (max).................................. 20%
Calcium (min)..................................... 0.85%
Calcium (max) .................................... 1.15%
Phosphorous (min)................................ 0.5%
Salt (min) .............................................. 0.8%
Salt (max).............................................. 1.1%

Fall, winter, and spring feeding nutrition list
Crude Protein (min)................................18%
Crude Fat (min).....................................2.5%
Crude Fiber (min)...................................14%
Crude Fiber (max)..................................18%
Calcium (min) .....................................0.85%
Calcium (max).....................................1.15%
Phosphorous (min)................................0.5%
Salt (min)...............................................0.8%
Salt (max)..............................................1.1%

Ingredients: dehydrated alfalfa meal, ground oats, soybean meal, wheat millings, 10% rice mill by-products, cane molasses, calcium phosphate, salt, copper sulfate, vitamin A supplement, d-activated animal sterol, vitamin E supplement, vitamin B12 supplement, iron amino acid complex, zinc amino acid complex, manganese amino acid complex, copper amino acid complex 

Each of our rabbits has an evaluation of their health and body structure each month. These health evaluations increase to three times within a month if that rabbit is considered to be selected to compete in a rabbit show. These health checks are done by myself and follow the ARBA's Showmanship Standard Practice.

Within a rabbit show, Showmanship is a field of competition that is often performed by the youth class such as any student participating in 4H or FFA. 

I utilize this Showmanship practice as a quick vet check on the animal and a general overview of the rabbit's health condition. This process is an easy at-location way to see if there are any health problems within my herd such as ears or fur mites, weepy or runny noses and eyes, abscesses or broken bones, and other health problems that may be of concern. This Showmanship process is not a replacement for a proper vet visit however it is a great way to oversee the rabbit's health and see if a proper vet visit or medical action is necessary. Within a select few medical cases, I possess the necessary medication to halt the spread of infection and disease. If I find that I do not possess the proper medication or knowledge to handle a medical situation A rabbit-knowledgeable veterinarian is swiftly contacted.  

When a rabbit is selected to be rehomed either to another rabbit breeder or as a new family member in a pet environment. I look over the selected rabbit(s) one last time before meeting their new family. The Showmanship overview is then encouraged to be performed with the new owner to ensure the rabbit is in peak physical health.

Depending on each rabbit's individual needs, each rabbit is given a choice of engaging toys or delicious treats. What toy or treat one rabbit may enjoy may not be the favorite of another. We give plenty of options to each rabbit to see what toy and or treat is their favorite. These are just a list of a few popular items and treats that I have seen my rabbits interact with the most.

Timothy Hay cubes
Fiber is often increased by providing loose hay. Our rabbits get access to timothy hay cubes three times a week. The Timothy Hay cubes offer a boost in fiber as well as a destructible play item. Depending on the rabbit and how much they like to choose a hay Cube can be a sustainable toy.

Toilet Paper Rolls
This is a toy that can easily be collected when done with a roll of toilet paper. Make sure you remove as much paper as possible. I don't like to use any toilet paper rolls or paper towel rolls that might have tape or glue on them. These toys give a great opportunity for a rabbit to chew and be destructive. You can also fill the toilet paper rolls full of hay to encourage more chewing. I find that my rabbits take anywhere between a day to a week to fully destroy the toilet paper tube.

Wood Scraps
A piece of wood or a wood scrap can be a great long-lasting chew toy for your rabbit. Make sure the wood is untreated and is non-toxic. I avoid any wood that has been painted including the wood blocks that are sold for bird toys.

Pine Cones
These are toys that can be sourced from your yard and give your rabbit a fun natural destructible to that can be long-lasting depending on the rabbit. When you are collecting pine cones make sure that the area you are collecting the pine cones in has not been treated with pesticides or any toxic chemical.

Loose Metal or Hard Plastic Bowls
Small bowls that hold at least a cup of water or feed can also be used as great play toys. I have also seen other breeders use child stacking cups as play toys. I have used both metal and hard plastic bowls with great success. Using bowls as playthings might come as a downside though, the rabbits will start seeing the Bulls more as a plaything and not until she eats them with food or water. In this situation, I have found that rabbits who associate their bowl with playtime over food time often just spill their water or food and do not eat it. 

It is best to socialize all rabbit young. When any rabbit is born on the property, I check their health status every day sometimes several times a day depending on situations such as large litters and the weather temperature. Performing health checks when a rabbit is under the age of 10 days helps the rabbits get used to human interactions and gets them used to being handled by humans. By the time the rabbits are 10 days old their eyes will start to open. At the stage when their eyes are beginning to open, I have found that in some cases I have to reintroduce myself because the young rabbits are experiencing a brand new sense for the first time. These daily one-on-one sessions of being picked up and handled continue until the rabbits are 2 months old. When the rabbits hit this age in their life I have noticed that they naturally take less interest in being constantly handled. One thing I do not want to do to my rabbits is force interactions. The outliers that continue to ask to be pet or interacted with will be evaluated to see what home style best fits the rabbit's personality. 

For the rabbits who are permanent residents at the Bunny Barn, between the ages of 3 months to the end of their lives, they are handled alongside their scheduled daily feedings. Some rabbits will gladly accept pets and sometimes even want to be picked up and carried. While others are more comfortable with a quick pat on the head and nothing more. Even though I strive for all of my rabbits to be friendly, social, and tolerate human interaction there are still some who prefer to be solitary. For rabbits with this Behavior type, we still respect their needs while still trying to make human interaction a positive experience for them.

Any new rabbit that is coming to me from a different rabbitry is put into temporary quarantine due to health and safety measures for both the new rabbit and existing rabbits in the barn. These new rabbits have just relocated and do not know me or any of my family members. So giving them a space to themselves helps ease them into their new homes. With any of these new rabbits coming into the barn for the first time I am slow and patient with these new arrivals. Oftentimes I let the rabbits come to me on their own accord unless there is a significant health problem that needs to be addressed. If all is well these rabbits will exit quarantine after 30 days minimum. Socialization still might need some work at this time. Because the rabbits are no longer in quarantine this gives me plenty of opportunity to socialize these new arrivals.